Caning – Part 1

Caning – Part 1  |
Caning – Part 2 |
Spanking  

Canes have a deserved reputation as the Victorian weapon of terror to all children – and to most submissives, they mean severe punishment often because they’re used wrongly; however used in the right way and with care and patience, however, canes can be used in a loving and sensuous way. It is the very stiffness of a good cane that makes the stroke intensive and which also allows the lightest taps to be given with perfect control. The light canestroke is easier to aim unlike a flexible whip that sags and flops at low power. They can also be used for severe punishment too!

The secret is light strokes, a matter of trust, patience, and finesse. If you can’t gain, maintain, and deserve the submissive’s trust, it wont work – an hour is good and two is better. Finesse? Of course.

A single cane can deliver an entire symphony of sensation. A snappy blow that is pulled back a bit just before impact will emphasize surface sting. The same sort of blow carried past the moment of impact, with follow-through, will have much more thud and penetration, but by far the greatest intensity is delivered by the outer third of the cane’s length and whilst it leaves marks in a hard blow, with a light blow its just a relatively stingy feel. Closer to the Master’s  hand, the cane moves much more slowly, and the sensation will be more thuddy or even massage-like and is used where a sub is showing signs of overload.

The very tip of a cane should only be used on the inside of a sweet spot, the bottoms of the feet, the muscles between the spine and the shoulder blades and should not cross bony areas, as it causes bone bruises which are not good and can crush nerves with longer term  harmful damage. Until you’re really experienced DON’T try for these with any force.

The sub should be lying flat as it avoids the need to keep balance.
–  massage tables are ideal,
– cafeteria-type tables if sturdy are about the right height.
– Arrange padding if the table doesn’t already have it.
– If possible have at least a metre on each side of the bottom, so that you can switch sides.

You can also use a bed with hardboard on it to create a flat surface and then a duvet for the sub to lie on.

Only if not available use ground level with a mattress or futon or foam pad but this involves Master sitring or kneel beside them which restricts his movements

Switching sides will help to keep the caning symmetrical and allows you to rove over the subs body with a spare hand. Stroke, massage, caress, and collect feedback from feet, legs, and buttocks, and play with their pussy,  caress their face, massage their back, grab hair or the back of their neck, play trust games with your finger between their teeth as you cane them… If Master is brave enough ….. and Master should have the Severe Punishment cards at hand that we’ve spoken about in case of biting. (in case you haven’t got there on the site yet, the severe punishment cards are blank playing cards that you can buy on eBay which have severe punishments on each card, in my case with a handful of you’re forgiven cards (which sometimes encourages bratty subs to deliberately take severe punishment cards in case to get away with their bratty behaviour). The sub has to pick a card at random if they have done something deserving severe punishment. I use blanket playing cards because you can get them with red and blue backs – red are severe punishment and blue are moderate punishment. There is no such thing in my dungeon as mild punishment!)

Standing Caning
A caning can be an awkward thing to deliver when the bottom is standing, especially if the top is taller. There is a strong tendency for strokes to land too high, on the bony upper half of the butt, when the bottom is standing up and the sweet spot is hard to reach from this position.
It’s easier with Master sitting on a chair but if you know how to do it safely, suspension may also offer a way to get the bottom a foot or two higher.

I try to avoid the traditional bent positions for caning, where the recipient crouches or bends over a chair as stretched skin is much more sensitive. (The Victorian punishers wanted overload so bent people over but for sensuous caning we want to avoid it). Beg also mans that the tailbone comes up into harm’s way when one bends over, and hitting this can lead to chipping it and inflicting a painful lifetime disability as damaged tailbones don’t heal!) When I have a really skinny sub, it is not unknown to deliberately put a protective pad (usually from a first aid kit) over the tailbone. There is a lot of perfectly good buttock area that is easy to work and located safely from these positions. On the straight body, the tailbone is much more protected

If you have a new sub, lie her down, run your finger gently down as spine all way down to her arsehole and you will easily feel how far the tailbone goes because it varies in different people.

WARMUP TECHNIQUE

Endorphin Heaven is achieved when the sub is deeply relaxed, trusting, not anticipating the next stroke but rather accepting. Too hard or too fast will drop them out of their warm accepting trusting bottom space just the time when you should be building it up an their vanilla brain will take over with its ancient survival reflexes screaming “Damage! scram!!” and although the sub will be working to control panic and nervousness, it wont work for her. The Master must build the intensity so smoothly that the bottom is supported rather than challenged in their efforts to stay centered, trusting and accepting…..but pace for the sub, Gentle stimulation gradually increasing is one thing; boring is quite another. Use safecolours  for spanking – I use green for speed up or get more intensive, Blue for just too slow (and one of my sub uses “Bastard” for just right, thus ensuring the next stroke for swearing at Master.

Escalate the intensity very gradually – no stroke should be more than a third harder than the previous stroke which helps relaxation – and tell the sub – ALSO it is important to avoid surprises as this will tense them up for a long while afterwards. So resist the temptation to tease them or fake them out. You can also begin with an ordinary massage. Massage releases endorphins in a very non-threatening way so when a bottom is new to this technique, their delighted surprise can relax them, build a lot of trust early on, and give them confidence for the cane.

I always have a horsehair flogger to hand as this stings if used gently and maintains the trust. I also only ever use this is the sub is standing up.

START CANING
Now begin with the cane, tapping very lightly over the areas that had the percussion warmup. (Avoid any bony areas). Starting slowly also gets you used to the feel of the cane. The blows should have less force than your fingertips did; the cane is hard and stingy, and the idea is to introduce the cane without breaking the relaxed and trusting glow of your warmup.

Have ordinary light taps, and mix in a few that are feather-light; with practice you can deliver a flutter as light as the landing of a flock of butterflies and this contrasts to harder strokes, but never go harder – as the endorphins build up don’t be surprised by a fit of giggles.

Do single taps, double taps, quick flutters of various intensities. You are teaching the sub that they cannot predict your strokes, AND that it doesn’t matter because they won’t be harmed. It is a non-verbal trust-building exercise.

Teach breathing. Deep, careful breathing controls panic, and this is vital as intensity builds.  (Not you – the sub!) Breathing stops panic; take panic away and what’s left is just strong sensations. All kinds of wonderful things can be done with strong sensations…

Use your other hand to keep up a steady contact with caresses and massage. It relax and comfort the sub but more importantly you will be able to detect twitches, tension, or relaxation. If the sub is vocal, a sharp edge to their tonewarns of gradually building tension and bottom space is eroding. The muscles under your other hand should be more and more relaxed as the caning proceeds.

As you gradually build the intensity, one useful trick is to follow a harder blow with a quick light rain of flutter strokes, right into the same area. This distracts from any overload and takes them back to processing the bottom space

WARNING

Canes may seem stiff, but a hard stroke can bend them ninety degrees and more, and a wraparound with a cane can be dangerous. Wraps are most common when a top goes to full power, after a well-aimed series of warmup or measuring strokes.
As momentum of the arm goes up exponentially with increased speed, the Mster’s whole body is pulled forward as a heavier stroke is delivered which further increases the power and the full-power stroke automatically reaches several inches across the sub’s body and take your aiming stroke so that the cane tip lands in the middle of the far cheek, no further. This aiming point will land a full-power stroke that safely spans the full width of the buttocks and no further.

Good Masters will practice on a cushion or pillow and certain flock material will shows a stroke and that stroke hides previous stroke marks.

It’s also good to put a cushion or blanket roll on the far side of the sub as this catches imadvertent wrap-around harmlessly.

ALWAYS: Be sure to confine hard strokes to the buttocks below the tailbone and the upper half of the thighs.