Making the Box Stock

Making Box Stocks

Box stocks hold the submissive’s wrists and ankles securely in a fixed position. They can be very uncomfortable for longer times. The position is excellent for spanking and other impact and penetration activities.
BE AWARE: Hard blows could knock the occupant over or cause their knees to buckle and buckling knees while in a box stock can easily break an ankle!

These stocks aren’t much more than a box consisting of four boards, all of which fit into channels in the sides where the two outermost stock boards slide freely, and are removed to enter the piece. Those pieces then lock to the fixed centre boards with draw latches. A bottom (floor) for the box is optional and can be a tray if the submissive is going to b left in the stocks to wet herself. (If this is the case, the stocks need marine varnish or they will stink!). If you plan to use it mostly on a carpeted surface and without “wetting option, leave the base out. The size of box stocks makes a huge difference in comfort to the occupant, particularly the distance between wrist and ankle holes. The easiest way to size the design is to have your target crouch in a position like this and measure things or to have moveable points. Wrists and ankles are diameter measurements at the widest point, and translate to the size of these holes. As the lower leg will be angled to some extent, leave some slack here. Hole-to-hole distance (i.e. the distance between hole centres from ankle to wrists will influence the occupant’s comfort. Alternatively you can combine the box stocks with the normal stock uprights to create a mid-riff board that the sub has to bend over. (Note that the mid-riff bar has a sharp upper edge to stop the submissive lying on it!).

If you’re only going to have one submissive in the stocks, then you might want to have your target hold position for a while to get a feel for expected comfort.
Ankle height must provide clearance for the entire foot or the board will actually rest on the foot causing serious injury.
(If you plan a base, don’t forget to add in its thickness!)
An alternative is to have the holes larger and for smaller-boned submissives, their ankles and hands can be restrained by ankle and wrist cuffs clipped or tied to anchor points on the box stocks.

Box stocks can be built from structural lumber, but hardwood is better.

FOR ORDINARY BOX STOCKS
1. Cut the two ends to exact length (19.5″)
2. Cut the four top boards – they will have a 1/4″ lip on each end running in channels in the sides – (20″)
3. Line these boards up on a table in their final position.
4. Measure the depth of the four together to get an accurate box depth. This is the length of the two sides.
5. If you’re using the boards described, the ends need to be trimmed on a table saw by removing 25/32″ (1/32″ over 3/4″) from the width of both end boards to allow them to slide freely past the ends.
6. Run a groove the length of each side with a Router (or table saw) and make a lip on both ends of each of the four top boards.
(How well the box stocks work will depend on the accuracy of this step).
7. Start with the side channel. It is going to be 3/8″ wide, 5/16″ deep, and 3/8″ below the top of the side piece.
The best way to cut it is with multiple passes on a router table, with 1/4″ straight bit.
(The extra depth will ensure smooth motion for the mobile stock boards and tight fit for the stationary ones). Make sure both sides are mirror images if your boards are better on one side.
8. Remove wood to make the lip in both ends of all four top boards. The remaining lip should be 3/8″ high and protrude by 1/4″.
9 After running all four boards, adjust the setup and take an additional 1/64″ off each direction on the outside stock boards.
9. Clamp the sides and ends into position, forming the box frame. Make sure the top boards fit into the channels properly, and leave them there for the next step.
10. With the top boards clamped snugly together in the box, mark the ankle and wrist holes in the proper places.
11. Remove the boards and cut out these holes with jig or scroll saw and finish them up with a drum sander.
12. The Edges now need to be sanded smooth and rounded to avoid injury.
13. Assemble. Start with the box section, comprised of the ends and sides, glued and clamped ensuring that all corners are square. (Box clamps are nice for this coupled with a strap clamp).
14.Before the glue dries hard, test the setup by sliding all top boards into place, ensuring the end stock boards slide freely and the centre boards are snug-to-tight.
(Tip: Use angle irons for added strength).
15. Insert the two centre top boards, gluing in place (but avoiding glue in the channel within 3.5″ of the ends. Also glue the two surfaces of these boards that meet in the middle. 16. Attach draw latches.
17. Find Submissive and test.